Philodendrons and anthuriums are mostly tolerant of low light and can also appreciate high light with direct sun for a few hours. These aroids can be shrubby, epiphytic or creeping.

Temperature & humidity

Depending on their profile, their needs differ. One rule nevertheless applies: respect the temperature/humidity balance.
Native to tropical regions, they grow at high temperatures and humidity levels all year round. The challenge in Europe becomes particularly apparent when winter comes and we turn on the heating. Electric heating drastically dries out the air.

Leaves transpire much more when it is hot due to evaporation linked to heat. It is strongly recommended to be able to increase humidity when the heat increases. Two periods of the year are particularly sensitive: the great heat of summer and winter with the heating which dries the air terribly.

Philodendrons are not the most sensitive to this phenomenon but will be much happier if you respect their needs. A humidity of 40-70% is sufficient and easily achieved all year round with a humidifier. For anthuriums and especially velvet-leaved anthuriums, increase the humidity to 60-80%.
To control temperature and humidity we sell a small discreet station available on the site.

Above all, remember not to place your plants near a radiator in winter, or too close to a window in summer.

Watering

Depending on your substrate, watering from above or below will be best.
For a typical aroid substrate, with 60% AllMix potting soil, 20% perlite, 20% pine bark, top watering is fine. Typically, your Houseparty Plantes plants come with a potting soil like this.
For a substrate containing more coco peat, or more sphagnum, prefer watering from below. The water will be absorbed by the capillarity of the peat and sphagnum. These substrates are often used for an intermediate culture.

In any case, less water is often less dangerous than too much water! With too much water, fungi can appear that rot the root system little by little. We do not recommend the use of watering pipettes, which often drown the plants.

Air circulation

For some plants, especially epiphytes that grow higher up on trees in the tropics, a larger volume of air is required to match their transpiration rate and airflow helps their leaves unfurl. Epiphytes generally do very well indoors but if you can get close to their natural conditions, don't hesitate, a small rotating fan can please them!

Fertilizer

When it comes to fertilizer use, HouseParty Plants uses low doses once a week during the growing season (March-October) and once every three weeks during darker, cooler periods. Use a weak fertilizer for small plants, and a stronger one for your larger plants. Avoid burning the roots by adding fertilizer right after repotting, fresh potting soil already contains fertilizer.

Repotting / cuttings

When you receive your plant, do not disturb it by repotting it immediately. The pot intended for shipping is suitable for a few more months. When you see roots protruding from the bottom of your pot, it is time to repot it in a larger container (15->17). From experience, philodendrons in particular can be repotted in even larger pots without any negative consequences.

Cuttings can help your plant if it becomes too large or if you simply want to try to obtain a second copy of your rare plant. Remember that the plant has grown by growing its root system and its foliage in parallel according to its rhythm and the balance it has found. If you take leaves, remove a few roots proportionally in a sterilized manner so as not to transmit harmful microbes to your plant, and let dry until healed before putting the plant (mother or cutting) back in the ground. Also, for maximum success, we recommend layering, which consists of wrapping a node with damp (not wet) sphagnum moss and waiting until a root system appears on the trunk of the mother plant.

Parasites

No one is immune to pests, so inspect your plants regularly, especially their foliage. Also, be sure to inspect your new plants carefully, even professionals are not immune to pests and may have missed their presence.

There are a large number of parasites, insects, fungi and others. If your plant is infected, immediately place it in quarantine away from others. We recommend chemical treatment if contamination is proven, because it is often more effective, even if it is not very ecological most of the time.

As a preventative measure, a regular shower with a gentle jet can wash away parasites present on the foliage and also get rid of accumulated dust preventing optimal photosynthesis by the plant.

The most common pests:
thrips - on philodendrons and monstera
Mites and scale insects - on alocasia
scale insects - on hoyas